LOS ANGELES RESTAURANTS

You might not guess it from the modest, rather congested dining room, but this is one of L.A.'s most celebrated Italian restaurants. The key is chef-owner Gino Angelini's thoughtful use of superb ingredients, evident in dishes such as mussels and clams in garlic, parsley, and white wine and pumpkin tortelli with butter, sage, and asparagus. An awesome lasagna verde, inspired by Angelini's grandmother, is not to be missed. Whole branzino, crusted in sea salt, and unusual specials (e.g., tender veal kidneys) consistently impress. An intelligent selection of mostly Italian wines complements the menu, and desserts like the open-face marmalade tart are baked fresh daily. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch weekends.

This hot spot, whose staying power on the fickle Sunset Strip is impressive, shares the Mondrian hotel's city views with Sky Bar, once the most exclusive nightspot in town. Prices are high but portions are often large enough to share. Signature dishes include a picadillo-style tuna tartare dubbed "Tunapica," "Lobster Mai Tai" flavored with rum and coconut, mojito-glaze steak, and Alaskan butterfish with Cuban black beans and edamame (soybean) salad. The cross-cultural experiments in the kitchen may yield mixed results, but the scene is always entertaining. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.

As stylish and sophisticated as anything on the Westside, Bistro 45 blends rustic French cooking -- cassoulet, bouillabaisse, tarte tatin -- with more modern and fanciful California hybrids, such as seared ahi tuna with a black-and-white-sesame crust. The art deco bungalow has been tailored into a sleek environment. The wine list is among the best in town, and owner Robert Simon regularly hosts lavish winemaker dinners. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch weekends.

Chef-owner Mark Peel has mastered the mix of robust Mediterranean flavors with homey Americana. Occupying a 1926 building that once housed the offices of Charlie Chaplin, Campanile is one of L.A.'s most acclaimed and beloved restaurants. Appetizers may include sweetbread ravioli with pancetta and lobster, while grilled snapper with Meyer lemon aïoli and prime rib with tapenade appear as entrées. For dessert, consider a pecan-caramel tart or chocolate beignets. Thursday night, grilled cheese sandwiches are a huge draw, as the beloved five-and-dime classic morphs into creations like goat cheese and marinated fennel on walnut toast. For an ultimate L.A. experience, come for weekend brunch on the enclosed patio. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

Cicada, certainly one of the most romantic and architecturally dramatic dining venues in L.A., occupies the ground floor of the 1928 art deco Oviatt Building. The glass doors are Lalique, carved maple columns soar two stories to a gold leaf ceiling, and from the balcony, a glamorous bar overlooks the spacious dining room. "Modern Italian" best describes the menu: shrimp ravioli in curry sauce, Maine lobster crepes, and braised veal shank with dried-fruit risotto. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

After years of neglect, the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel got a face-lift and suddenly turned into party central for young Hollywood celebs. The opening of its contemporary steak house, though, is far from a superficial change, as it balances hipness with the spirit of an American classic. Snack on truffled Parmesan fries, tuck into a rib eye with chimichurri sauce, or try Scottish salmon in a sweet chili barbecue sauce. The decor follows a dress code of lots of leather and suede. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

With a look-at-me decor, complete with fire boxes and dramatic wine displays, this celebrity-owned restaurant is well known for its star-gazing opportunities. However, it also appeals to serious diners and, with a 40-plus page wine list, to oenophiles. The contemporary Italian cuisine includes dishes such as saffron risotto with veal, gold sea bass with fennel, and osso buco. To keep costs down, consider the enoteca menu, which lists interesting small plates. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

If you're flying to L.A., you can begin or end your trip with a stop by the dramatic Theme Building for a meal with a runway view. Designers from Walt Disney Imagineering whipped up the intergalactic atmosphere. Choices such as tuna tartare, Peking-style duck, and roasted chicken with a mustard cream sauce certainly beat airplane fare. The place, with its colorful, futuristic design and close encounters with rumbling 747s, is a delight for kids of all ages. AE, MC, V.

After years of moving through the city's top kitchens, chef Neal Fraser is doing his best cooking yet in a place of his own. He mixes textures and contrasting flavors in dishes like risotto with pumpkin, sea urchin, and sweet shrimp; barbecued wild salmon in enoki mushroom sauce; and wild boar tenderloin in violet mustard sauce. Imaginative doughnuts, like a maple-glazed doughnut with candied walnuts and apple cider ice cream, highlight the compelling dessert menu. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch.

A contemporary sense of style layered with a retro, woodsy warmth frames the classic American cooking of chef Suzanne Tracht. The menu at this bastion of comfort cuisine represents a hit parade of all-American favorites. After crab deviled eggs, consider steak, rack of lamb, or a massive slab of tender pot roast that's a world apart from the one Mom used to make. You can finish with rich chocolate pudding or banana cream pie. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Mon.-Sat.

Done in understated taupe hues with generously spaced tables, this rather sophisticated establishment feels like it belongs in San Francisco instead of more laid-back L.A. You'll find outstanding game dishes here, such as wild boar tenderloin and venison in burgundy-pear sauce or a foie gras-topped buffalo burger. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. No lunch.

Here in "Little Tokyo West," this understated restaurant with contemporary art and rough-timbered sushi bar distinguishes itself from the competition. Friendly chef-owner Ken Namba might send out beautifully marbled salmon, smoked in-house and crowned with caviar, or lightly seared toro topped with a tiny dollop of minced chili. Sea urchin risotto and rice turtle soup provide soul-warming breaks from a parade of beautifully presented, but never overwrought, sushi. Regulars finish with housemade sesame ice cream while contemplating their next visit. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch weekends.

Owner-chef Jean-François Meteigner developed a following while cooking at L'Orangerie and Cicada. At his own restaurant, he combines traditional French fare -- foie gras, Provençal bouillabaisse, rack of lamb -- with a lighter, more modern cuisine reflected in dishes like roasted Maine cod with a passion fruit-ginger-plum sauce. A dressy (by L.A. standards) crowd makes sure that this elegant, flower-filled cachette (little hiding place) doesn't stay hidden. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Once silent-film star Harold Lloyd's carriage house, this brick building has morphed into a chic restaurant that's a big hit with the younger, well-heeled set. And the veggie-intense cooking by Suzanne Goin is smart, too: consider Italian heirloom pumpkin soup with sage and chestnut cream, pancetta-wrapped Alaskan cod with red potatoes, crushed grapes and crème fraîche, and short ribs with horseradish cream. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

The privacy of the high-backed booths here isn't the only lure for entertainment industry players -- it's the sophisticated contemporary-American cuisine that keeps bringing them back. Look for duck breast with grilled foie gras and lavender-plum sauce, grilled rare bluefin tuna with niçoise olive jus, and a stellar rib eye with béarnaise. And for longtime regulars, Maple Drive classics like meat loaf and "kick-ass" chili are always available. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch weekends.

Freshness and innovation are the hallmarks of this flagship restaurant of superchef Nobu Matsuhisa's empire. The surprisingly modest-looking place draws celebrities and serious sushi buffs alike. Here you'll encounter such dishes as caviar-capped tuna stuffed with black truffles, squid "pasta" with garlic sauce, sea urchin wrapped in a shiso leaf, and monkfish liver pâté wrapped in gold leaf. Reflecting his past stint in Peru, Matsuhisa incorporates intriguing Latin ingredients into traditional Japanese cuisine. Regulars ask for the omakase, assured of an amazing culinary experience, and then steel themselves for a big tab. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Only a small fish logo identifies the facade of this restaurant, but many consider it the best sushi bar in L.A. and Morihiro Onodera one of the great sushi masters in America. The austere whitewashed space stands in contrast to the chef's artful presentations of pristine morsels of seafood, all served on ceramic plates he makes himself. Allow him to compose an entire meal for you -- this can be an expensive proposition -- and he'll send out eye-popping presentations of sushi or sashimi accented with touches of rare sea salts, yuzu, and freshly ground wasabi, as well as intricately conceived salads, housemade tofu, and soups. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

The beef palace of restaurateurs Joachim and Christine Splichal, named after their twin boys, has been so successful they've replicated the concept in other cities. The restaurant is modern, but elements of the traditional steak house -- cozy booths, crisp white linen, wood accents -- remain. The choice steaks come from a glassed-in, on-site aging chamber; build up your order by deciding among a dozen sauces and an equal number of potato side dishes. The wine list, deep in California reds, is predictably strong. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Operating since 1946, this cavernous restaurant isn't right on the water, but the Pacific is just across the street -- ask for a table by the window for an ocean view. Low ceilings, dim lighting, well-spaced tables, and attentive service create a close-knit mood. There are plenty of lobster dishes, but other popular choices include paella, Kona Coast big-eye tuna, and prime steaks. The oyster bar offers a dizzying selection. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Despite a galaxy of crystal chandeliers, Ortolan attempts to take the pretentiousness out of haute cuisine. Here designer jeans outnumber designer suits. But ex-L'Orangerie chef Christophe Emé keeps up an impeccable standard in the kitchen with dishes such as Napa Valley escargots with lettuce emulsion and Parmesan crust, roasted squab with date puree, and what may be the silkiest foie gras in the city. Many creations are dramatically presented on stone slabs or in unique vessels. The one thing even Emé can't get you is the namesake game bird; it's endangered. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Since its highly anticipated opening in 2005, Providence has drawn considerable praise for the work of chef-owner Michael Cimarusti, formerly of downtown's Water Grill. Obsessed with quality and freshness, the meticulous chef maintains a network of specialty purveyors, some of whom tip him off to their catch before it even hits the dock. This exquisite seafood then gets the Cimarusti treatment of French technique, traditional American themes, and Asian accents. For instance, you might find foie gras paired with lobster, arctic char with a black tea infusion, or crayfish with sweetbreads, asparagus, and chive espuma (foam). AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Mon.,Tues., and weekends.

When you've had enough big-city attitude, head for this romantic retreat in the Santa Monica Mountains -- it feels a thousand miles from L.A. What was once a bordello is now a restaurant oozing with rustic elegance. Mounted stag and moose heads watch over roaring fireplaces and mountain views. They also hint at the lodge's specialty: game. Bring out the knives for wood-fired rack of venison, roasted elk tenderloin with creamy wild-mushroom sauce, and buffalo with béarnaise sauce. The sprawling terrace is an idyllic spot for Sunday brunch. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed.-Sat.

The flagship restaurant of Wolfgang Puck, the chef who helped define California cuisine, is justifiably a modern L.A. classic. The casually elegant restaurant centers on an outdoor courtyard. There, shaded by 100-year-old olive trees, you can glimpse the exhibition kitchen and, on occasion, the affable chef-owner greeting his famous friends. (The people-watching here is worth the price of admission.) The daily-changing menu could offer a tasting of five foie gras preparations, côte de boeuf with Armagnac-peppercorn sauce, Cantonese-style duck, and some traditional Austrian specialties. Acclaimed pastry chef Sherry Yard works magic with everything from a sophisticated tart inspired by the Twix candy bar to an Austrian kaiserschmarren (crème fraîche pancakes with fruit). Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

Just off the lobby of the eternally fashionable Regent Beverly Wilshire hotel is this chic but laid-back venue. It's the kind of place where you could order either a pizza or a $185 martini (the Baccarat glass is a souvenir). Salads and truffled risotto are offered for grazing, while a more serious meal might begin with ahi tuna tartare, followed by seared scallops and sweetbreads, rotisserie chicken, or steak with Point Reyes blue-cheese sauce. A small terrace faces a Rodeo Drive lineup of Tiffany, Prada, and Cartier. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Beverly Hills restaurants can take you many places, from Provence to Polynesia, but in this case it's just up the Golden State Freeway to a traditional San Francisco-style grill with dark-wood paneling and brass trim. The clubby chophouse, where movie industry execs power-lunch at the most coveted booths in town, creates tasty, simple American fare, including steaks, chicken potpies, crab cakes, Cobb salad, and homemade rice pudding. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

Despite its prevalence of salad-picking starlets, L.A. is experiencing a stampede of contemporary steak houses, a trend well represented by the Lodge. With a neorustic motif devoid of the customary red leather and white linen, this hip establishment's only connections to the traditional American steak house -- besides high prices -- are its deftly seared prime beef, classic potato side dishes, and extensive selection of full-bodied red wines. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Believe it or not, this kitschy restaurant-bar is the most restrained of the late Victor Bergeron's South Seas extravaganzas. Opened in 1955, it has outlasted nearly all of its competitors, thanks to new generations of admirers. Longtime favorites like crab Rangoon (wrapped in wonton noodles and deep-fried), skewered shrimp, grilled pork ribs, and peanut butter-barbecued lamb have been joined by lighter options such as sushi rolls, sesame seed-crusted ahi tuna, and Thai curries. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Shortly after celebrated sushi chef Masa Takayama packed his knives for the Big Apple, his protégé Hiroyuki Urasawa settled into the master's former digs. The understated sushi bar has preciously few seats, resulting in incredibly personalized service. At a minimum of $250 per person for a strictly omakase (chef's choice) meal, Urasawa is the priciest restaurant in town, but the endless parade of masterfully crafted, exquisitely presented dishes renders few regrets. The maple sushi bar, sanded daily to a satinlike finish, is the scene of a mostly traditional cuisine with magnificent ingredients. You might be served velvety bluefin toro paired with beluga caviar or egg custard, uni (sea urchin) glittering with gold leaf. This is also the place to come during fugu season, when the legendary, potentially deadly blowfish is artfully served to adventurous diners. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Here Wolfgang Puck turns his hand to a mix of traditional brasserie and contemporary California dishes. You'll find French classics like a tarte flambé (a rustic onion tart from Alsace) and moules marinières (mussels cooked with shallots and white wine) alongside grilled tuna and a hefty Gorgonzola-topped burger. Though it's hidden in the Hollywood & Highland center, the restaurant is always busy; the bar is backlighted in the namesake color (green), and the walls sprout abstract sculptures. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

A big open kitchen with a mammoth, revolving rotisserie is the heart of this handsome, white-tile restaurant. Off the spit come roasted pork, veal, venison, or whole spit-roasted fish such as arctic char. A rustic sausage plate or prosciutto paired with creamy burrata cheese are fine ways to begin, and pasta courses (like gnocchi with rabbit ragù) are always skillfully prepared. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. and Mon.-Thurs.

There's a bustling, enticing rhythm here as platters of glistening shellfish get whisked from the oyster bar to the cozy booths. Chef David LeFevre's menu shows off his slow-cooking skills. Entrées such as olive oil-poached salmon with a mushroom vinaigrette and slow-steamed Alaskan halibut with kalamata olive puree exemplify his light, expert touch. Excellent desserts and a fine wine list round out this top-notch experience. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.